#Juicebox 32 vs 40 portable
#Juicebox 32 vs 40 pro
#Juicebox 32 vs 40 code

It doesn't change the usage or number of things. I have a ton of breakers, I had them when I built the house limit the number of things per circuit. The NEC is concerned with usage and not how many breakers you have. The one part of NEC and the rules that I haven't understood is how capacity, subscription and so forth is calculated for a house to determine when too many circuits is too many. I put in a whole house generator, put in a sub panel for the basement and finished that off, added an EVSE via a sub panel in the garage and just yesterday got inspected for a 20A circuit I added to my patio deck. I'm no electrician but I've pulled 4 electrical permits for my house in the last 3 years with electricians (I've done 80% of the work but they were there from start to finish to inspect and they are on the line if it's a screw up). I hope.Ĭlick to expand.I believe in most cases if you can handle 40A or 50A with how homes are over subscribed per code, you could go to 100A too. One thing is for certain, it's not going to be less. The reason for #2 above is my crystal ball says the next round of cars I purchase will be OVER 50A. Changing out a charger is a lot different and cheaper than possible/potential wire pull and scrapping copper. But in my opinion I would choose one of the following: Not knowing what your future holds or it's plans. And so forth.Īgain, not knowing your fiscal outlook. Whatever size you get, you need wire 20% over that for building code/safety reasons.

I think my next charger is going to be closer to 75A so I have the wire to support it. I have a 40A and would have saved the $ to have a 32A. I don't know what or if there is a correct answer on chargers. And of course, not knowing your specific situation like how long you plan on staying there. No one, especially in this group is going to agree on just about anything, but I would recommend putting in a circuit greater than what you need, and as large as it fiscally makes sense for you.

On one hand you can't have big enough wire, but on the other hand you don't want to spend more than you really will use. You're probably not going to buy the Elmec unit, but what I'm trying to illustrate is that you should take note of the more practical aspects of the EVSE than it's 'smartness'.Ĭlick to expand.It's typically the cost of the wire which will impact labor as well that makes the price move in either direction. It only charges at 30 amp, but that means that a charge from dead empty might take another 30 minutes, which really doesn't matter if you're charging overnight. It was less expensive and is quite a bit lighter and more portable. The J1772 release lever has a bellows around it that keeps water from getting in and freezing. The cord is lighter and stays flexible in the cold. I bought my in-laws a 30 amp Elmec EVduty EVSE made in Quebec and I like it better than the JuiceBox, mostly due to it being more Canadian Winter friendly (I presume that's not a concern for you). The car has better scheduling tools than the JuiceBox.

#Juicebox 32 vs 40 pro

I have a JuiceBox Pro 40 and while it's nice to have the app to see what's going on, I certainly don't need the smarts. It might be beneficial for a future EV, though. Getting a higher rated EVSE won't charge any faster, because the car won't use it. If so, you really don't need to buy an EVSE rated more than that.The Bolt on board charger has a 32 amp limit. You could start out using the included mobile charger and see if that provides fast enough charging speed (I think it will, given what you state above). If you assume 3.3 miles/per KwH, you will add about 25 miles of range per hour. The Ford mobile charger will provide 32 amps (7.7KW). If for some reason you do need to plug in a 6-50, you can get an adapter.

#Juicebox 32 vs 40 portable

Your MME will come with a portable charger with a 14-50 plug. It will provide the most flexibility going forward. If you decide to go with a receptacle, I'd recommend the 14-50.

#Juicebox 32 vs 40 code

Depending on your code cycle, you may be required to have a receptacle outlet on a GFCI breaker (which would not be required if you go hard-wired). You should consult a licensed electrical contractor and get quotes on both a receptacle and hard-wired. Having said that, it's never bad to keep the future in mind. Given your normal commute, you really don't need a max-level (48 amp or more) charge rate at this time. I would do some research and read the reviews that abound online.